News

Choosing the right TV unit size is mostly about avoiding a simple mistake: matching a TV’s advertised screen size to furniture without checking the TV’s real dimensions. This guide helps you choose the right TV unit width, depth, height, and weight capacity so your setup fits safely, looks balanced, and works in your room. Quick Answer: What Size TV Unit Do You Need? The right TV unit should be based on your TV’s actual width, base footprint, and weight, not the diagonal size printed on the box. In most cases, the stand should be wider than the TV, deep enough for the base or feet, low enough for comfortable viewing, and strong enough to support the load. Use this rule of thumb: Choose a unit at least 10–20 cm wider overall than your TV. For better balance, choose a unit 20–40 cm wider overall. Make sure the depth fully supports the TV base or both legs. Make sure the height keeps the screen comfortable to watch while seated. Check that the stand’s weight capacity exceeds the TV’s weight. Example: A 55-inch TV is usually about 122 cm wide, so a 132–163 cm stand is typically the right range. That is the simplest way to answer what size TV unit do I need without overcomplicating it. Byron Acacia 2 Door TV Unit How to Choose the Right TV Unit Size Measure Your TV’s Actual Width, Height, and Base Depth TVs are sold by diagonal screen size, but furniture fit depends on real dimensions. That is where many buying mistakes happen. Measure these four things: Full TV width, including the bezel (the outer frame around the screen). Overall TV height if you plan to use the included stand. Base depth, front to back. Leg spacing if the TV uses two feet instead of a center base. Why this matters: Two TVs with the same screen size can have different widths. A 65-inch TV from one brand may have much wider feet than another. Some TVs fit by panel width but fail by leg spacing. The base footprint often needs more space than buyers expect. A real-world example: two 65-inch TVs may both have the same screen size, but one may have a center pedestal while the other has wide feet near each edge. The second one can be a poor fit on a narrow console top even if the overall width seems okay. The safest source is the manufacturer spec sheet. Product manuals and retailer dimension diagrams usually show exact width, height, stand depth, and foot spacing. Mini checklist: Measure the TV you own, or Check the exact model specs, and Write down width, base depth, and leg spacing before shopping. Byron Acacia 2 Door TV Unit Match TV Width to the Right TV Stand Width This is the most important part of the buying decision. Use this width order: Never narrower than the TV A little wider is acceptable Moderately wider is usually best Exact width rules: Absolute minimum: 10–20 cm wider overall Recommended: 20–40 cm wider overall Why a wider stand works better: It improves safety. It reduces top-heavy appearance. It gives you room for a soundbar, decor, or devices. It makes the setup feel intentional instead of cramped. Quick comparison: Stand vs TV Width Result Equal to TV width Usually looks cramped and leaves no margin 25 cm wider overall Balanced for most rooms 40 cm wider overall Best for larger walls and larger TVs If your room is large, a stand that only barely clears the TV can still look too small. In open living rooms, the wider option usually looks better. Confirm Depth, Height, and Weight Capacity Width is only the first check. Many stands are wide enough but still fail on depth, height, or load rating. DepthThe top surface must fully support the TV base or both feet. If the stand is too shallow, the TV may sit too close to the front edge or not fit at all. HeightThe stand should keep the screen comfortable for seated viewing. In most living rooms, lower units work better than tall ones. Weight capacityThe stand’s load rating must exceed the TV’s full weight. Never guess this from photos. Also check: Space for a soundbar Shelf room for a cable box or streaming box Ventilation for game consoles Rear openings for cable routing A stand can be wide enough but still be unusable if it is too shallow or underrated. TV Unit Size Chart by TV Size TV Size Approx. TV Width Recommended TV Unit Width 43-inch 95 cm 107–137 cm 50-inch 110 cm 122–152 cm 55-inch 122 cm 132–163 cm 65-inch 145 cm 155–185 cm 75-inch 166 cm 178–213 cm 85-inch 188 cm 198–244 cm These numbers are approximate, so always confirm your exact model. The notes below cover what changes at each size. Byron Acacia 2 Door TV Unit Recommended TV Unit Size for a 43-Inch TV This size works well in a bedroom, apartment, or small living room. Even with a smaller TV, avoid an equal-width stand. A compact console, floating unit, or slim cabinet is usually the best fit. Recommended TV Unit Size for a 50-Inch TV A 50-inch TV fits well in compact entertainment areas. In many homes, a 137–152 cm unit gives the best balance of storage and room scale. Recommended TV Unit Size for a 55-Inch TV A 152 cm stand is often the safest all-around choice. This is one of the most common TV sizes, so many product listings are built around this middle-range fit. Recommended TV Unit Size for a 65-Inch TV In most homes, 165–183 cm is the sweet spot. At this size, storage and room scale matter more. Also check leg spacing carefully because many 65-inch models use wide-set feet. Recommended TV Unit Size for a 75-Inch TV This size usually needs a stronger visual anchor. A long console or low-profile entertainment center is often a better fit than a small media stand. Load rating and anti-tip stability also matter more here. Recommended TV Unit Size for an 85-Inch TV This is where standard stands often stop being enough. A modular unit, extra-wide media console, or wall-mounted setup with a wide lower cabinet is often the better solution. Before buying, verify: The exact TV weight The exact foot spacing The furniture’s weight capacity The actual top-surface depth Byron Acacia 2 Door TV Unit How Wide Should a TV Stand Be? Simple Width Rules Never narrower than the TV 10–20 cm wider overall is the minimum 20–40 cm wider overall is the recommended range This is an overall difference, not automatically per side A stand equal to the TV width may fit on paper, but it often looks cramped in real rooms When to Choose a Wider Unit Choose the wider option when: The wall is large The TV is 65 inches or larger You need room for speakers or a soundbar You want more closed storage The console needs to visually anchor the room If you are choosing between two widths and both fit, the wider one usually looks more balanced in an open living room. When an Entertainment Center Makes More Sense A basic TV stand is not always the best answer. Choose an entertainment center or modular media setup when: The TV is oversized The wall looks empty with a small console The room is open-plan You need more storage You want the furniture to anchor the whole wall This does not have to mean bulky traditional furniture. Many modern entertainment centers are low-profile, modular, and visually clean. Oxford Acacia TV Unit What Depth Should a TV Stand Be for Your TV? How to Measure Depth Use this method: Measure the TV base footprint from front to back. If the TV has two legs, measure the deepest point of the footprint. Leave some extra space from the front edge. Leave room behind the TV for cable bend space. Important: panel thickness is not the same as base depth. Many fit problems come from wide feet or angled legs, not from the screen itself. Good Depth Guidance Many setups work well with 38–51 cm of depth. Larger TVs and wide-foot models may need more. The TV should not sit flush to the front edge. You also need clearance for cables and accessories. General depth ranges help, but always prioritize the TV’s actual base footprint. Also Leave Room for A soundbar A cable box A gaming console A streaming device A router if needed A stand that fits the TV does not always fit the full setup. Check shelf opening height and airflow, especially for consoles that run warm. Oxford Acacia TV Unit How Tall Should a TV Unit Be? Simple Height Guidance TV Unit Height Best Use 46–56 cm Low units for most living rooms 51–61 cm Medium height for flexible everyday use 64–76 cm Taller units, often better in bedrooms Lower units are often better for sofa viewing because they keep the screen closer to seated eye level. What Works Best for Most Living Rooms In most living rooms, a low to medium stand works best. It keeps the screen center closer to your natural seated eye line and avoids a neck-straining upward angle. If your sofa sits low, or your room is built more for casual movie watching, lower units often feel more comfortable and look cleaner under larger TVs. Oxford Acacia TV Unit If the TV Is Wall-Mounted When the TV is wall-mounted, the unit below can be lower because it no longer carries the screen. But width still matters for balance, and storage still matters for the full setup. Keep these points in mind: Do not mount the TV too high just because the console sits below it. A wider console still looks better under a mounted TV. Cable management remains important. You still need room for devices, speakers, and accessories. Oxford Acacia TV Unit TV Unit Size by Room and Setup Small Living Room or Apartment Choose a compact footprint and low-profile shape. Avoid oversized furniture that eats floor space. Use enough width for balance, but not more than the room can carry. Consider floating units for a lighter look. Prioritize storage efficiency. Large Living Room or Open-Plan Space Narrow furniture often looks undersized on a large wall. Choose wider consoles, modular units, or entertainment centers. Focus on visual balance, not just technical fit. Larger TVs usually need larger furniture below them. Bedroom TV Setup Bed height changes the best viewing level. Slightly taller units can work better here. Still confirm stand width and depth carefully. Dresser-style media units are common in bedrooms. Wall-Mounted TV vs TV on a Stand Setup Pros Cons Wall-mounted TV Saves floor space, looks cleaner, works well in small rooms Requires drilling, harder to move, easy to mount too high TV on a stand Easier setup, easier to move, no wall work needed Takes surface space, depends more on stand depth and load rating In both cases, the unit below should usually still be wider than the TV for balance. Liverpool Pine 2 Door 1 Drawer TV Unit 180cm - Black Other Things to Check Before You Buy Weight Capacity and Stability Weight capacity is a non-negotiable safety check. Before buying, compare: The TV’s full weight The stand’s rated load capacity The stability of the stand on your actual floor Pay extra attention if you have: Kids Pets Uneven flooring Large TVs Narrow furniture footprints If the product supports anti-tip hardware, use it where appropriate. Also rely on retailer specs and manufacturer manuals, not marketing photos. A beautiful stand is not the right stand if the load rating is wrong. Storage for Media Devices Check shelf width and shelf height. Plan for streaming boxes, game consoles, speakers, and router equipment. Make sure enclosed shelves still allow airflow. Leave room for remotes and accessories. Cable Management Look for rear cutouts. Check for pass-through holes. Hidden wire routing makes the setup cleaner and easier to manage. Soundbar Fit Check the soundbar’s width and depth. Make sure it does not block the screen edge or IR sensor (the receiver for remote signals). If the TV sits on the top surface, confirm both items can share the space. Common TV Unit Size Mistakes to Avoid Shopping by diagonal size only instead of using the TV’s actual dimensions Choosing a unit narrower than the TV, which creates unsafe overhang Ignoring leg spacing on TVs with two feet Forgetting base depth and buying a stand that is too shallow Missing height comfort and ending up with a too-high screen Skipping load rating checks and assuming any stand will hold the TV Forgetting device storage for consoles, boxes, and speakers Choosing a size that fits the TV but not the room Fix: Measure the TV first, then compare every measurement to the furniture specs. Liverpool Pine 2 Door 1 Drawer TV Unit 180cm - Black TV Unit vs TV Stand vs Entertainment Center Term What It Usually Means Common Use TV unit General term for furniture under a TV Common on furniture sites TV stand Simpler, lower-profile piece for holding a TV Small to mid-size setups Entertainment center Larger or more storage-focused media furniture Large walls, big TVs, more storage Retailers often use these terms loosely, so always compare the actual dimensions. Final Buying Checklist Use this checklist before you order: Confirm the TV’s actual width Confirm the TV’s base depth Measure leg spacing if the TV uses two feet Choose a stand 10–20 cm wider overall at minimum Prefer 20–40 cm wider overall for better balance Check the stand’s height for comfortable viewing Confirm the stand’s weight capacity Check shelf fit for media devices Look for cable management features Make sure the furniture fits the scale of the room Confirm soundbar placement if needed The three most important checks are actual width, base depth, and weight/height fit. Before you buy, compare your TV’s exact dimensions to the stand’s product specs so you get a setup that fits safely and looks right in your room. Frequently Asked Questions What size TV unit do I need? The right TV unit size depends on your TV’s actual width, not just its diagonal screen size. In most cases, choose a unit at least 10–20 cm wider overall, with 20–40 cm wider overall often looking safer and more balanced. How wide should a TV stand be compared to the TV? A TV stand should never be narrower than the TV. A good rule is 10–20 cm wider overall at minimum, while 20–40 cm wider overall usually gives better visual balance, less screen overhang, and more room for devices. Can a TV unit be smaller than the TV? No. A TV unit smaller than the TV creates unsafe screen overhang, reduces stability, and usually looks cramped. For better safety and proportion, the stand should always be wider than the TV’s full measured width. What depth should a TV stand be for my TV? The TV stand depth should fully support the TV base or both feet without the TV sitting near the front edge. Many setups work with 38–51 cm of depth, but always check your TV’s exact base depth and cable clearance. What size TV unit do I need for a 55-inch TV? A 55-inch TV is usually about 122 cm wide, so a TV unit around 132–163 cm wide is typically the right fit. In many living rooms, a 152 cm TV stand is a safe and balanced choice. What size TV unit do I need for a 65-inch TV? A 65-inch TV is usually about 145 cm wide, so a TV unit around 155–185 cm wide is a good range. In most homes, 165–183 cm wide works best, but always check the TV’s leg spacing too. What size TV stand do I need for a 75-inch TV? A 75-inch TV is usually about 166 cm wide, so a TV stand around 178–213 cm wide is typically recommended. Larger rooms often look better with a stand toward the wider end of that range. How tall should a TV unit be? For most living rooms, a TV unit height of about 46–61 cm works well. The goal is to keep the center of the screen close to seated eye level, so the TV feels comfortable to watch without looking too high. Is a wall-mounted TV better than using a TV stand? It depends on your setup. A wall-mounted TV saves floor space and looks cleaner, while a TV stand is easier to install and move. Even with a mounted TV, the console below should still be wide enough for balance and storage. Related Reading How to Choose the Right TV Unit: Size, Height, and Style Guide TV Unit vs Media Console: Key Differences and How to Choose TV Unit Decorating Ideas for a More Balanced Living Room Stay in the loop Get styling ideas and early access to new arrivals, straight to your inbox.

There are 33 pieces of black furniture in this catalogue and they behave differently from every other group in it. Black is not a range and it is not a style. It is a finish that runs across two ranges and stops dead at the edge of them. What that means in practice is that you can furnish three entire rooms in it, and the moment you want a fourth thing, the answer is often no. Here is exactly what black covers, room by room, and the two places where it runs out. Key Takeaways Thirty three black pieces: 20 from Liverpool and 13 from Richmond, and nothing else. A complete black bedroom exists, and every piece of it is Liverpool. The dining room is the only one where both ranges give you a choice. Both coffee tables are 45cm high, but the sideboards are 11cm apart. Six of the eight ranges have no black version of any piece. Thirty Three Pieces, Two Ranges, Three Rooms The split is 20 Liverpool and 13 Richmond. Between them they cover bed frames, bedside tables, chests, tallboys, mirrors, dining tables, dining chairs, benches, sideboards, consoles, coffee tables, TV units and a side table. On paper that is a whole house. Underneath the finish, both ranges are the same construction they are in natural: Liverpool is a solid pine frame with an oak veneer, Richmond is oak legs on a pine structure. Nothing is built differently to take the dark finish, which is why the black pieces carry the same dimensions as their pale twins to the millimetre. The grain still shows, and that is worth knowing before you order. This is not a painted flat black, it is a dark finish over open grained timber, so the surface reads as timber that happens to be black rather than as a lacquered panel. In direct Australian sun the grain is clearly visible from across a room. The Black Bedroom Is Liverpool, and Only Liverpool Seven pieces make a complete bedroom, and every one of them comes from the same range. The Liverpool Pine Queen Bed Frame - Black carries an upholstered headboard and footboard panel set into a black timber frame, which is the detail that keeps a dark bed from reading as a slab. Around it sit the Liverpool Pine 2 Drawer Bedside Table - Black at 60 x 45 x 55.9cm, the Liverpool Pine 6 Drawer Chest - Black at 140 x 45 x 85cm and the Liverpool Pine 5 Drawer Tallboy - Black at 100 x 45 x 100cm. The chest drawers are 24.6cm deep inside, the deepest in the catalogue in any finish. The Liverpool Pine Mirror - Black finishes it: a 90cm circle, 4cm deep, hung rather than rested. A round black mirror on a pale wall above a black chest is the single most effective thing you can do with this range, because the wall does the lifting and the furniture does not have to. Liverpool Pine Queen Bed Frame - Black [products-of-collection collection="black-furniture" heading="Every Piece Offered in Black" limit="12" columns="4" columns_mobile="2" section_id="blog-black26-1"] The Dining Room Is the One With a Choice This is the only room where black gives you two genuinely different options. The Liverpool Pine Dining Table 190cm - Black sits on a solid panel base with softly rounded edges. The Richmond Pine Dining Table 240cm - Black sits on an open frame that you can see through and under. That difference matters more in black than it does in natural. A dark solid base reads as a block of shadow under the table, and in a smaller dining room it can make the whole piece feel heavier than it is. An open frame in the same finish keeps the floor visible underneath, which is the reason the Richmond version handles a tight room better. Richmond also brings the only black bench in the catalogue. The Richmond Pine Dining Bench 208cm - Black pushes fully under the table because it is 40cm deep against a chair's 62cm, and in black, tucked in, it effectively disappears. If your dining area is a walkway as much as a room, that combination is the strongest argument in the whole range. Richmond Pine 2 Door 3 Drawer Sideboard - Black The Living Room, and the One Gap Coffee tables, TV units and consoles all come in black from both ranges. The Richmond Pine 2 Drawer TV Unit - Black is 160 x 45 x 55cm and the Richmond Pine Coffee Table - Black is 120 x 60 x 45cm, both with the open frame detail that runs through the range. The gap is the side table. The only one offered in black is the Liverpool Pine End Table - Black at 55 x 55 x 58cm. If everything else in the room is Richmond, this is the one piece that has to come from the other range, and at 55cm square in the same dark finish nobody will ever notice. A black TV unit is also the easiest black purchase to justify. A television is a black rectangle whether you like it or not, and a dark cabinet underneath absorbs it into one shape instead of framing it in pale timber. That is the argument for black even in a room where nothing else is dark. Richmond Pine 2 Drawer TV Unit - Black Where the Two Ranges Line Up, and Where They Do Not If you are buying black from both ranges, and most people who do a whole level end up doing exactly that, there are two numbers to check. The good news is at low level: both coffee tables are 45cm high, and the TV units are within a centimetre of each other in both height and depth. Put them in the same room and nothing looks off. The tall pieces are where the two ranges disagree. The Liverpool sideboard is 76cm high and the Richmond is 65cm, an 11cm gap that is very visible if the two share a wall. The consoles are 76cm and 82.5cm, 6.5cm apart. Neither is wrong, but they were not designed to stand next to each other. The workable rule is one range per sight line. Richmond for the dining end, Liverpool for the living end, or the reverse, and let the doorway or the change of room do the work. Mixing them within a single wall is the only way to make black furniture look accidental, which given how deliberate the finish is would be a shame. Liverpool Pine 6 Drawer Chest - Black What Never Comes in Black Six of the eight ranges have no black version of anything. There is no black acacia, because the two acacia ranges exist to show the timber and a dark finish would defeat the point. There is no black French Provincial, no black Hamptons bedroom, and no black version of the bed frames that carry drawers in the footboard. That last one is the exclusion worth planning around. If you want under bed storage and you want black, those two requirements do not meet in this catalogue, and the answer is a black bed plus a black chest rather than a black bed with drawers in it. What you get in return for the narrow range is consistency. Every black piece here came from one of two ranges built to the same depth grid, so anything you buy in black will physically agree with anything else you buy in black. The full black range is small enough to see in one screen, which is the fastest way to check whether the piece you want is in it. Frequently Asked Questions Which Cedora ranges come in black? Two of the eight. Liverpool accounts for 20 of the 33 black pieces and Richmond for 13. Byron, Oxford, London, Manchester, Bristol and Newcastle have no black version of anything, so black and acacia never appear on the same piece. Can you furnish a whole bedroom in black? Yes, and it comes entirely from Liverpool: three bed sizes, a bedside table, a six drawer chest, a five drawer tallboy and a mirror. That is a complete bedroom, and it is the only range that offers one in a dark finish. Do the two black ranges match each other? At low level, yes. Both coffee tables are 45cm high and the TV units are within a centimetre of each other in height and depth. Higher up they diverge: the sideboards are 11cm apart and the consoles 6.5cm, which is visible when they share a wall. Is there a black side table? One, from Liverpool, at 55 x 55 x 58cm. If the rest of your living room is black Richmond, the side table is the piece that has to come from the other range, and at that size and height the difference does not read. Does black furniture work in a small room? It works best as a single anchor rather than a full scheme. One black piece against a light wall gives a small room a focal point. A whole small room in black loses the sense of where the walls are, which is the opposite of what a small room needs. Related Posts Same Table, Two Finishes: What Black Actually Does to an Australian Room Thirteen Designs, Two Finishes, One Range for the Whole Open Plan Level Three Ranges Share the Scandinavian Label, and Only One Does Dining Stay in the loop Get styling ideas and early access to new arrivals, straight to your inbox.

Most people shop for a sideboard by width. You measure the wall, subtract a bit for comfort, and start filtering. It is a reasonable way to shop and it is why so many dining rooms end up with a piece that fits the wall perfectly and still feels wrong every time you use it. The number that decides how a sideboard behaves is its height, and across the eight in the Cedora range that number moves 21cm, from 65cm to 86cm. Every Cedora dining table, in all four lines, is 76cm. What follows is what each height band does once there are plates on it. Key Takeaways Cedora sideboards span 65cm to 86cm in height, while every dining table is exactly 76cm. At 85cm to 86cm the Oxford and Byron work as standing serving surfaces. At 76cm the Liverpool sits level with the table, so dishes slide straight across. At 65cm the Richmond reads as a low console and suits a living room wall better. All of them are 45cm or 46cm deep, so plan a 75cm to 90cm walkway on top of that. Every Dining Table Is 76cm. The Sideboards Are Not. Dining tables are one of the few pieces of furniture with a genuinely fixed height. Across the Liverpool, Richmond, Byron and Oxford ranges, every table measures 76cm from floor to top, whether it is a 160cm four seater or a 240cm eight seater. Chairs are built to that number, so nobody varies it. Sideboards have no such rule, and manufacturers use the freedom differently depending on what they think the piece is for. A sideboard designed as a buffet gets built near kitchen bench height. One designed to sit under a window or a run of artwork gets built low. Both get sold under the same word, which is where the confusion starts. So before comparing finishes, work out which of the three jobs you actually need: a surface to serve food from while standing, a surface that extends the table, or a storage box that stays visually below everything else in the room. Each one has a height, and once you know the height the shortlist gets very short. At 85cm and 86cm, You Serve Standing Up The Oxford Acacia 4 Door 1 Drawer Sideboard is 180 x 45 x 85cm and the Byron Acacia 3 Door 3 Drawer Sideboard is 160 x 45 x 86cm. An Australian kitchen bench is usually 90cm, so both of these land within about 5cm of the surface you already prepare food on. Your back knows the difference between that and reaching down to 76cm with a hot dish in both hands. That is the case for either of them in a room where the dining table does the entertaining. Christmas lunch, a birthday with too many people, any meal where the table is full and the food has to be somewhere else: a sideboard at bench height turns into a second bench, and you can carve on it without anyone at the table getting an elbow in the ear. The two differ in how they divide the space inside. The Oxford runs four cupboard doors with a single drawer above them, and that drawer is 87.4cm wide but only 17.8cm high, which is a shape almost purpose built for cutlery trays, table linen and serving spoons laid flat. The Byron takes the opposite approach with three drawers over three cupboards, so it holds more small things and fewer long ones. Both are solid acacia with an MDF back panel, and both stand on visible legs rather than a plinth, which keeps a big piece from looking heavy. Oxford Acacia 4 Door 1 Drawer Sideboard At 76cm, the Sideboard and the Table Become One Surface The Liverpool Pine 2 Door 3 Drawer Sideboard - Natural is 180 x 46 x 76cm, and the black version is identical in every dimension. At 76cm it is exactly level with every Cedora dining table, and level does something the other heights cannot: you can slide a dish from one to the other without lifting it. In practice that matters most for the meals nobody photographs. Weeknight dinner where the rice cooker and the salad bowl live on the sideboard because the table is not big enough for both plus homework. Sunday breakfast where the toaster gets carried in. Anything where the two surfaces are working together rather than one serving the other. Inside, three drawers sit between two cupboards, each drawer measuring 53.8 x 36.9 x 21.6cm. That is deep enough for placemats stacked flat, tea towels, candles and the drawer of miscellaneous dining room objects every house has. The frame is solid pine with an oak veneer, the edges are softly rounded rather than square, and the recessed finger pulls mean there is no hardware to catch a hip on in a room where people squeeze past. Liverpool Pine 2 Door 3 Drawer Sideboard - Natural [products-of-collection collection="sideboards" heading="Shop Cedora Sideboards" limit="8" columns="4" columns_mobile="2" section_id="blog-sideboard-1"] At 65cm, It Stops Being a Serving Piece The Richmond Pine 2 Door 3 Drawer Sideboard - Natural is 160 x 45 x 65cm. That is 11cm below the table it would sit next to, and 25cm below a kitchen bench. Anything you serve from it, you serve bent over, which is worth knowing before rather than after. Read it as a low console instead and it becomes the most useful piece in the range. At 65cm it sits below the sight line of anyone standing, so a wall of artwork above it reads as the feature and the furniture reads as the base. It also clears most window sills, which is the one place in an open plan room where a taller cabinet simply cannot go. The structure is a pine carcass on solid oak legs, with two cupboards and three drawers, and there is a black finish in the same dimensions. In an open plan living and dining space, the honest use for it is as the divider between the two zones: storage for both, a surface for neither, and low enough that the room still reads as one space. Richmond Pine 2 Door 3 Drawer Sideboard - Natural Depth Is 45cm, and That Is the Number Small Rooms Fail On Every sideboard here is 45cm or 46cm deep, and the difference between them is not worth thinking about. What is worth thinking about is what sits in front. A dining chair needs roughly 75cm behind the table edge to be pulled out and sat in, and a person walking behind a seated diner wants about 90cm. Put those together and a sideboard on the same wall as the pulled out chairs needs your room to be about 1.4 metres deeper than the table itself. Most Australian dining rooms are not, which is why the sideboard belongs on an end wall or the wall behind the chairs nobody uses, not opposite the kitchen where the traffic runs. When the wall genuinely is not long enough, the Liverpool Pine 2 Door 2 Drawer Sideboard - Natural is the answer at 130 x 46 x 76cm, with a black version to match. It keeps the height and the depth of its larger sibling and drops 50cm of width by giving up one drawer. In an apartment dining nook that is usually the whole difference between a sideboard and no sideboard. Liverpool Pine 2 Door 2 Drawer Sideboard - Black Matching It to a Table You Already Own If the table came from one of these ranges, the matching sideboard is the safe answer and the finishes are made to sit together. But the range is deliberately mixable, and a contrast piece often works harder: a black Liverpool against a natural timber table gives a dining room a visual anchor that a matched set never does. What should not vary is the relationship between the heights. Within about 10cm of the table, in either direction, the two pieces read as belonging together whatever the timber. Push past 15cm and they read as two separate purchases, which is fine if that is the intention and jarring if it is not. So measure the wall last. Decide first whether you are buying a serving surface, a table extension or a low storage base, take the height that matches, and then check it fits. Bought in that order, a sideboard stops being the piece of furniture you walk around and starts being the reason the dining room works at all. The full sideboard range covers all three heights. Frequently Asked Questions How tall should a sideboard be? Between 76cm and 90cm if you want to serve from it standing up, because that is the range your kitchen bench already sits in. Below about 70cm it becomes a low console: still good storage, but you will be bending to reach anything you put on top of it. Can a sideboard be taller than the dining table? Yes, and two of the Cedora sideboards are. The Oxford is 85cm and the Byron 86cm against a table top of 76cm, so they stand about 10cm proud. That reads as deliberate rather than mismatched, and it puts serving dishes above the heads of anyone seated. How deep is a sideboard and how much room does it need? Every Cedora sideboard is 45cm or 46cm deep. Allow that plus a walkway: 75cm of clear floor for people to pass behind seated diners, or 90cm if chairs on that side get pushed back regularly. In a narrow room, put the sideboard on the wall the chairs do not use. What size sideboard suits a small dining room? The 130cm Liverpool. It is the only one under 160cm, it keeps the same 76cm height and 46cm depth as the 180cm version, and it gives up one drawer rather than any usable capacity. In an apartment dining nook that 50cm saving is the difference between fitting and not. Does the sideboard have to match the dining table? It does not, but the height relationship matters more than the timber. A sideboard within 10cm of the table reads as part of the same set even in a different finish, while one that is 20cm lower reads as a separate piece of furniture that happens to be in the room. Related Posts Sideboard vs Buffet: Key Differences and How to Choose What to Store in a Sideboard: Smart Storage Ideas & Tips How to Style a Sideboard: 10 Expert Rules for a Perfect Look Stay in the loop Get styling ideas and early access to new arrivals, straight to your inbox.

A dining set sounds like a product and it is not. It is the same table and the same chairs sold on one page instead of three, which makes it the rare furniture decision where you can check the maker's claim yourself in about ninety seconds. Worth doing, because the answer is not the same on every bundle. Here is what a set contains, what it typically saves, and how to work out whether the one you are looking at is the cheaper way to buy. Key Takeaways A set is the same table and chairs bundled, not a different product. Bundles typically come in below the separate prices, sometimes by a couple of hundred dollars. Chairs bought on their own come in pairs, so six chairs means three chair sets. Richmond is the only range with bundles that include a bench. Check the arithmetic on your exact combination before ordering, because the gap varies. What Is Actually in a Cedora Dining Set The Dining Sets collection holds fifteen bundles across three ranges: Richmond, Byron and Liverpool. Oxford sells bundles too, listed within its own range rather than in that collection, so it is worth checking there as well if Oxford is your starting point. Each bundle is a table plus a stated number of chairs. The Richmond Pine Dining Table 190cm with 6 chairs - Natural is precisely that, and the table inside it is the same W1900 x D900 x H760 (mm) piece sold on its own page. Nothing about the furniture changes when it is bundled. Two Richmond bundles do something different, pairing four chairs with a bench instead of six chairs. The Richmond Pine Dining Table 240cm with 4 chairs & Bench 208cm - Natural seats eight with half the seating tucking away under the table when it is not in use. No other range offers that, because no other range makes a bench. The Saving, and How to Check It Yourself The method takes a minute. Open the table's own page and note the price. Open the chair page and note the price of a set of two. Multiply that by the number of pairs you need. Add them. Compare to the bundle. On the bundles that discount hardest, the gap is real money. Byron's larger settings come in a couple of hundred dollars under the separate total, and the Richmond bundles land consistently in the same territory. On a purchase of two to three thousand dollars, that is a delivery fee or a rug. The gap is not identical across every combination, though, which is exactly why the check is worth doing rather than assuming. Some pairings sit much closer together than others. If the bundle is cheaper, take it. If your particular combination comes out level, then the decision moves to the things a bundle does regardless of price, which are the next section. What you are comparing How to work it out Table on its own Price from the table's own product page Chairs for six Chair set of 2, multiplied by three Chairs for eight Chair set of 2, multiplied by four Bench bundle Table, plus two chair sets, plus the bench The bundle Single price on the set's own page [products-of-collection collection="dining-sets" heading="Cedora Dining Sets" limit="12" columns="4" columns_mobile="2" section_id="blog-sets-1"] Chairs Come in Twos, Which Makes the Maths Odd Every Cedora dining chair is sold as a set of two. The Richmond Pine Dining Chair Set of 2 - Natural, the Byron Acacia Dining Chair Set of 2 and the Liverpool Pine Dining Chair Set of 2 - Natural all work that way, which is why a six seat room means three purchases rather than six. Selling in pairs is genuinely sensible for a dining room, because seating grows in twos. It does mean that if you want an odd number, or five chairs and a stool, the bundle logic stops helping and you are better off buying pieces individually. It also creates the most common overspend in this category. If you already own four chairs you like, do not buy a bundle to get the table. Buy the table. A bundle that includes six chairs you will store in the garage is not a saving under any arithmetic. Byron Acacia Dining Table 240cm with 8 Chairs The Bench Bundles Are the Ones Worth a Look If your dining room is tight, the two Richmond bench bundles do something no discount can. Four chairs down one side, a bench down the other, and the bench sits 30cm below the tabletop so it slides completely underneath between meals. That returns floor space every day rather than saving money once. In a room where the table sits in the path between the kitchen and the living area, having half the seating disappear is worth more than the difference between a bundle price and a separate one. It also seats more people than the chair count suggests. The 208cm bench takes up to four across, so the 240cm bundle with four chairs and a bench handles eight comfortably and squeezes a ninth when somebody arrives unannounced, which four separate chairs cannot do. Richmond Pine Dining Bench 208cm - Natural When Buying Separately Is the Better Plan Three situations, and none of them are about price. The first is mixing finishes. If you want a black table with natural chairs, or a Byron table with Oxford storage, no bundle will do it and buying separately costs you nothing but the bundle discount. The second is staging the purchase. A table and four chairs now, two more chairs next year when the household grows, is a perfectly sensible plan and one the pair-based chair pricing supports well. Bundles ask you to commit to the final seat count on day one. The third is chair preference. The chairs in a bundle are that range's chairs, and the ranges differ more than people expect: Richmond's stand 88cm tall, Liverpool's 83cm. If you sit in both and prefer the other one, buy the table you want and the chairs you want, and treat the lost discount as the price of not regretting it every dinner. How to Choose the Right Bundle Start from the table, not the bundle. Measure the room, decide whether you need 160cm, 190cm or 240cm, and only then look at what is bundled with that table. Choosing a set because the deal looks good is how people end up with a 240cm table in a room that wanted 190cm. Then decide the seating honestly. Count the people who eat there on an ordinary Tuesday, not at Christmas. If that number is four and you host twice a year, a four chair bundle plus two chairs added later beats an eight chair bundle you are storing. And do the arithmetic before you press buy. It takes a minute, it is the only way to know what your particular combination saves, and it is the difference between assuming you got a deal and knowing you did. [products-of-collection collection="dining-chairs" heading="Chairs, Sold in Pairs" limit="8" columns="4" columns_mobile="2" section_id="blog-sets-2"] Frequently Asked Questions Is a dining set cheaper than buying the pieces separately? Usually, and on the bundles that discount hardest it is by a meaningful margin. It is not automatic though, so do the arithmetic on the exact combination you want: table price plus the chair sets, against the bundle price on the same page. How many chairs come in a Cedora dining set? It depends on the bundle. Four, six or eight, and on two Richmond bundles it is four chairs plus a bench. Bought separately, chairs are sold in pairs, so six chairs means three chair sets. Are the pieces in a set different from the ones sold on their own? No. A set is the same table and the same chairs, ordered together. Every dimension is identical, which is why the comparison is purely about price and delivery rather than product. Which ranges sell dining sets? Richmond, Byron, Oxford and Liverpool. Richmond has the most bundles, including the only ones that pair chairs with a bench. Should I buy a set if I already have chairs? No. Buy the table on its own. A set only makes sense when you need the chairs, and paying for six you will not use to save on a bundle is the most common way people overspend in a dining room. Related Posts Matching Dining Table With Chairs: A Pro Guide to Perfect Pairs How Many Chairs for a Dining Table? Australian Size Guide Liverpool or Richmond? The Bench Decides It More Often Than the Table Does Stay in the loop Get styling ideas and early access to new arrivals, straight to your inbox.