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Cabinet Door Not Closing Properly? Start With the Floor, Not the Hinge

Black timber sideboard with doors and drawers behind a pale sofa in a room with a fireplace

A cabinet door that will not sit flush is nearly always fixable in ten minutes with a screwdriver. The catch is that most people start at the hinge, and if the cabinet is standing out of level the hinge adjustment will never hold.

So the order is: level the cabinet, tighten what is loose, then adjust the hinge. Doing it the other way around means adjusting a door to fit a carcass that will move again next week.

Why Would the Floor Matter?

Because a sideboard is a box, and a box on four feet with one foot unsupported twists. On a 180cm cabinet a 3mm dip under one foot puts several millimetres of racking into the far corner, which shows up as a door that touches at the top and gaps at the bottom.

Put a spirit level on the top, front to back and across. If it is out, shim the low foot until it is not, then look at the door again. A surprising proportion of misaligned doors correct themselves at this step, particularly on timber floorboards where a board has cupped.

The tell for this is both doors of a two door cabinet leaning the same way. That is the carcass, not the hinges.

What Do the Three Screws on the Hinge Do?

Most modern furniture uses a concealed European hinge, and it has three adjustments. Knowing which screw does what turns guesswork into a fix.

Screw Position What it moves
Side adjustment Closest to the door, usually the front screw Door left and right, closing or opening the gap between two doors
Depth adjustment The middle or rear screw on the arm Door in and out from the carcass, so it sits flush or proud
Height adjustment The mounting plate screws on the carcass side Door up and down

Work one screw at a time and in small turns, a quarter turn at most, closing the door to check after each. Adjusting two at once means you cannot tell which one helped.

Adjust both hinges on a door together, and start with the top hinge. If a door is dropping at the outer bottom corner, the top hinge is usually the one carrying the load and the one to move.

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What if the Door Is Just Loose?

Before adjusting anything, put a screwdriver on every screw you can see: the two on each hinge arm, the two on each mounting plate, and any screw in the door itself. Years of opening and closing works them loose, and a loose hinge plate shifts under load rather than staying where you set it.

If a screw turns without biting, the hole is stripped. Take the hinge off, push a matchstick or a timber sliver with a drop of wood glue into the hole, snap it flush when the glue sets, and drive the screw again. That repair lasts years and takes five minutes.

Do not simply fit a longer screw. On a 16mm to 18mm panel a longer screw comes out the other side.

Why Does It Close but Then Spring Open?

That is usually the depth adjustment, not the catch. If the door is sitting too far out from the carcass, the hinge cannot reach its over centre point and it pushes back rather than pulling in.

Wind the depth screw so the door sits slightly closer to the carcass and try again. A quarter turn on each hinge is often enough.

If the cabinet has soft close dampers and one door slams while the other glides, the damper on the slamming side has failed. They are a wearing part and replacements are cheap and generally interchangeable within a brand.

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Could It Be Something Inside?

Open the door and look at what is on the shelf directly behind it. A stacked plate 2mm proud of the shelf edge, a serving platter leaning forward, a cable coiled at the back of a TV unit: all of them hold a door open just enough to look like a hinge fault.

This is worth checking early because it costs nothing. It is also the most common cause in a dining sideboard, where things get put away quickly and pushed to the front.

The other version is the door catching the shelf edge itself, which happens when an adjustable shelf has been set a fraction forward. Slide it back a few millimetres.

What Gap Should I Be Aiming For?

Two to three millimetres, even all the way round, and the same on both doors of a pair. The eye reads inconsistency far more easily than size, so a 4mm gap that is identical top and bottom looks correct while a 2mm gap that tapers looks broken.

Set the two doors of a pair against each other rather than against the carcass. Get the centre gap even first, then bring the outer edges into line, then set the depth so both faces sit in the same plane.

Step back two metres and look. Hinge adjustment done at arm's length from a kneeling position rarely looks right from across the room.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Why will my cabinet door not close properly?

Most often because the cabinet is not standing level, which twists the carcass and throws the doors out. Check with a spirit level and shim the low foot before touching a hinge. After that, the usual causes are loose hinge screws, something on the shelf behind the door, or a depth adjustment set too far out.

How do you adjust a concealed cabinet hinge?

There are three adjustments. The screw closest to the door moves it left and right, the middle or rear screw moves it in and out from the carcass, and the mounting plate screws move it up and down. Turn one screw at a time in quarter turns and close the door to check after each.

Why does my cabinet door spring back open?

Usually because the depth adjustment has the door sitting too far out from the carcass, so the hinge cannot reach the point where it pulls itself closed. Wind the depth screw in a quarter turn on each hinge and try again.

What if a hinge screw spins and will not tighten?

The hole is stripped. Remove the hinge, push a matchstick or a timber sliver with a drop of wood glue into the hole, snap it flush once the glue sets, and drive the screw again. Do not fit a longer screw, because on a 16mm to 18mm panel it will come out the other side.

How big should the gap around a cabinet door be?

Two to three millimetres, even all the way round and matched on both doors of a pair. Consistency matters more than the size of the gap, because the eye reads a tapering gap as broken and an even one as correct.

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